Washington City Paper

When you own a food truck called Greatest American Hot Dogs, you better deliver. Fortunately, owner David Trachtenberg takes his weenies very seriously. Researching for this nomadic eatery, he crisscrossed the country on tasting trips, read innumerable books and websites, and visited iconic hot dog shops. Eventually, he assembled a collection of nearly 70 regional recipes from Chicago, Atlanta, Philadelphia, Newark, and beyond, though the best of the bunch takes inspiration from closer to home. The West Virginia Slaw Dog is standard summer fare in the Mountain State. Trachtenberg’s take begins with a Vienna Beef dog that’s deep fried, then grilled. It’s shoehorned into a buttery toasted bun and covered with house-made, bean-free chili. Creamy coleslaw, a shake of celery salt, and a switchback of yellow mustard finish it off. It’s a messy bite that might end up on your shirt or in your lap, but it’s worth every stain. Savory, slightly salty, and rich, the Slaw Dog hits all the redneck umami receptors on your palate. Definitely one of the greatest American hot dogs. —Nevin Martell

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